Meet me in San Luis (Potosi)

San Luis Potosi was never on any of our travel plans, probably up until the day prior to us leaving Zacatecas.

So why were we now on yet another bus (thankfully only a 3 hour trip) headed to this UNESCO listed colonial city of over 700,000 people?

Originally it was simply a stopover. A means to break up what would have been a full day of travel, simply to get to Real de Catorce. In our hostel back in Zacatecas however, we’d also heard of a couple of nearby natural wonders, so our second task was to now also see if we could get there ourselves, or at least find a tour!

We’d checked online for accommodation options in advance, and not seen a lot in the budget price range, which prompted us to book somewhere in advance, hostel Corazón de Xoconostle.

Our reluctance to indulge in Taxis meant another lengthy walk on another fairly warm afternoon (about 3.5km), so we were hugging every bit of shade we could find (of which there wasn’t all that much until we got closer to the historical centre).

Clothing covered in sweat, we checked in, dumped our bags and began the now fairly standard, wandering reconnaissance of the town.

The main cathedral of San Luis Potosi in Plaza de Armas

The main cathedral of San Luis Potosi in Plaza de Armas

The plazas of this city, with the exception of the Plaza de los Fundadores, were all lovely and green, with at least lovely trees, and in some instances, lovely grassed areas as well.

Without us realising, the clock has passed 13:00, thus meaning all of the cities churches had closed their doors for siesta, meaning we saw at first many lovely facades, but not their decadent interiors.

Eventually we got inside the cathedral

Eventually we got inside the cathedral

We finished the afternoon searching for a tour operator, Positina, to try and get ourselves to Puente de Dios (some waterfalls/pools that looked amazing when we Googled them), only to discover their office was actually inside a hotel and unmanned.

As such, we emailed them in the vain hope that they may run a tour there for the Sunday, the day we expected we’d be passing back through.

It had been an effort to find something for lunch, so much so that we’d had another late one, meaning thoughts for dinner weren’t really all that serious (I don’t recall if we actually had anything… perhaps for me it was donuts?!)

Donuts! At 5 for 10 pesos, I couldn't not try them... (possibly why I'm smiling)

Donuts! At 5 for 10 pesos, I couldn’t not try them… (possibly why I’m smiling)

The next morning we were aboard another bus, but those 2 days are for another story.

Our return to San Luis Potosi (on a Saturday afternoon), ran remarkably similarly to our first arrival.

A long walk from the Terminal de Autobus to the hostel Corazón de Xoconostle (although this time we hadn’t booked ahead), where we settled back down and were finally able to check our emails after a couple of days offline.

Hostel Corazón de Xoconostle

Hostel Corazón de Xoconostle

Unfortunately, there was to be no tour for us on the Sunday… but they could do the Monday! We quickly confirmed, and all of a sudden our one night stay was to become three!

First call was dinner, as the day of bus rides from Real de Catorce back to San Luis Potosi had left us ravenous, and Sarah (having spied it during our earlier time here), already had a destination in mind.

Near where we had tried to book our tour stood a couple of food stands which sell something we’d read of, but not yet tried, Tacos Potosinos.

What these interesting looking morsels are/were (it wasn’t just Tacos that these guys sold, but also Burritos & Flautas), was basically a tortilla dip in chili before being fried off, and served with all manner of goodness inside (the ones we tried came served with shredded lettuce and fried potato & carrot on the side as well).

There was a kindly old man who was about the stall, who not only made sure we got prime seats at the front, but also made sure that the ladies had taken our order (we enjoyed the food and the experience so much, we returned here for our final San Luis Potosi meal).

Watching the magic happen

Watching the magic happen

The final delcious, picante (spicy) product

The final delcious, picante (spicy) product

Our Sunday was unexpected, so truth be told, we actually did little, other than indulge in the occasional wander, and indulge in more food.

Turning around one corner we spied the small entrance to a food vendor selling 6 peso tacos, bargain! Also lounging around said corner were a bevvy of reclining Mexican women, mostly clad in provocative clothing.

Nevertheless, we wandered into the narrow stall (which double as the entrance passage to a hotel), where we ordered our Tacos Pollo (chicken) and took note of the occasional woman enter or exit the building.

Sure, in all likelihood these women were Mexican hookers, and sure, in all likelihood this hotel was where they plied their trade (sorry, I wasn’t able to get a picture of them), but hey, these Tacos were not only cheap, they were delicious! So good in fact, we both ordered more!

6 peso tacos (of the food kind!)

6 peso tacos (of the food kind!)

As a random aside, we can only assume there were 2 entrances, as we never saw any clients enter or exit, through this place in which we sat…

Other highlights of this time here, included the chance to sample another Mexican curiosity. Fruit sprinkled with Chili & Salt, and finished with a squeeze of Lime.

It was actually really tasty (you can get mixed cups, but we opted simply for coconut), although could have been improved by keeping the coconut chilled (they keep it on ice, but it’s never the same as a fridge…).

Coconut with Chili, Salt & Lime. Even better after we chilled it in our hostel fridge!

Coconut with Chili, Salt & Lime. Even better after we chilled it in our hostel fridge!

I have however saved Sarah’s San Luis Potosi highlight until last.

As far back as Chihuahua, then again in Durango we’d spied many bridal shop windows with what she would term ‘Gypsy Dresses’, however these seemed to be the popular norm, rather than the sleek bridal gowns we are now used to back home.

Sarah was thrilled to finally spy her 'Gypsy Bride'

Sarah was thrilled to finally spy her ‘Gypsy Bride’

Yes, the colours were as you see (many in the shop windows also came in lovely pinks and yellows), and it was completed very nicely by a bevvy of young men in silver suits!

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One Response to Meet me in San Luis (Potosi)

  1. I love the way you’re discovering MX, Chris. You’re literally getting a real flavour for authentic Mexican life, and I’m enjoying sharing your adventures with you. Never thought about putting chili on coconut! Sounds intriguing!

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